2002 S/S Ready-To-Wear - Idea

KARL LAGERFELD's genius at Chanel lies in his ability to reinterpret the house's classics season-after-season. For spring/summer 2002, the double-C logo was boxed in red and emblazoned on the sleeves of powder blue leather biker jackets and on the bottoms of zip-up trousers, accessorised with matching Chanel helmets and motor-cross stop watches, which nestled amid strings of pearls around the models' necks. The two-tone shoe came in the form of a red and blue baseball boot, and quilting, more commonly associated with Chanel bags, was deployed on soft blue padded box jackets and sporty shorts, piped in red, or on black leather boots, which were strung around the ankle with a miniature version of the famous gold strand belt. The legendary tweeds were still breathtakingly chic: slim, softly waisted jackets with narrow sleeves and beautifully round collars appeared in bobbles of pale grey or pink (devoid of their matching skirts), while black and white versions were lengthened into coatdresses.

Chanel's penchant for black and white was played out again in camellia flat-caps, white cardigans with hems that were broadly cross-stitched in black, and white shirts that peeped at collar and cuffs from under black-lapelled, fitted jackets like riding pinks. Lagerfeld subscribed to a number of more wide-spread trends, too, sending out multi-coloured stripes on straight skirts, putting frills on cotton shirt bibs and black cocktail skirts.

TEXT FROM VOGUE.COM

2008 F/W Ready-To-Wear - Ad.

　　　　


Here's the 2008 F/W RTW Advistisment.
The photo is taken by Karl Lagerfeld. The color used in this ad. present the emphasis of color - Advancing qualities of hue, value and intensity highlight a location against receding qualities.

2008 F/W Ready-To-Wear - Idea

2008
Fall in Winter
Ready-To-Wear






A Chanel carousel fitted out with giant quilted bags, camellias, pearls, boaters, and bows faced the audience as it poured into the Grand Palais for the Fall Ready-to-wear show. It was a fitting metaphor for the timeless turning of the house classics, and for the unstoppable machine fashion has become these days. The instinct, on arrival, was to prepare to hold on tight. How fast would this thing be set to whiz? How many blur-speed notions would Karl Lagerfeld manage to whip past us this time?



Thankfully, instead of the past few seasons' bamboozling surges of styles, all that transpired was that the girls walked in a circle, then climbed aboard the turning merry-go-round so that the clothes could be viewed again at leisure. It was worth a second and third look because this was a collection that, in spite of its something-Chanel-for-everyone variety, also provided gimmick-free commentary on current trends.

Lagerfeld didn't miss a trick, from fragile, frothy, high-necked blouses to spidery knits, peplum jackets, and an intelligent exploration of how longer lengths might be worked into a winter wardrobe. It could be as a tweed maxi column skirt with a delicate blouse (the literal version), but also as a long, cutaway ostrich-trimmed coat over a short skirt (newer and cooler).

And what of austerity chic, the subject du jour? Lagerfeld's witty take was an updated retread of Coco Chanel's "poverty de luxe," so that the tweed suits came with worn-through elbows or scatterings of faux-darned patches. Nothing too heavy, of course, because Lagerfeld is not one to take passing fashion issues, even recession, too seriously. But in its relative restraint, reserved color, and holding back on accessory overload, this collection was a smart way to prove that whatever goes around comes around, and ends up looking just as Chanel as ever.

sources:

text from www.style.com
photos from www.thefashionspot.com

Karl Lagerfeld's inspiration of Chanel S/S ready-to-wear collection came from the merry-go-round. During the fashion show, the merry-go-round was circulating and which represented the meaning of the Chanel's fashion comes around goes around, and never comes to the end.

Just like the Chanel classic jacket, it should be one of the Chanel's symbol, and totally match the idea of this year collection - never comes to the ends. So, we can always noticed the jacket from the past collection till now.

Chanel - The First RTW Collection (2)

Some photos of the first Ready-to-Wear collection in 1978


Tight black top and mid-calf tulle skirt trimmed with ribbons has the comtemporary feel of the dance craze and the delicacy of the haute-couture design repertoire


Barely-there see-through chiffon drapery for theatrical night wear and gold eveing slingbacks

The little black dress 78 styles, white collar, ribbon bow and cinch waist belt

Sources from Book - 《Chanel : key collections》by Melissa Richards

Chanel The First RTW Collection

After Chanel's dead in 1971, the House of Chanel faced decline. There was a frustrating double-edged sword to wield if Chanel's legacy was to continue, due to the necessity of blending tradition with innovation. The genius of Chanel was no longer there to bend the rules and thus caution reigned in the House of Chanel.

By 1978, Ready to Wear had been deemed to be the sensible avenue to take, and the company started to rethink matters. In 1977 Philippe Guibourge was appointed to produce Chanel's first Resdy to Wear collection.

Jersey was reintroduced as the desireable fabric - fitting was not deemed necessary, since its shape would adapt, and it had the right combination of informal easy shape and "dressed up" elements to suit the times. (During this time scent and perfume were hugely successful and led the way in the commercial market.)

The 1978 collection's navy suit was the perfect uniform for women who wished to appear smart and unfussy. It was ideal for both married women of a certain age and for working women who wished to appear fashionable but serious. The suits were quite successful at adapting the image of the Chanel suit to complement the mood of the times and were accessible to more people.

There was a whole new generation of women who were not being catered for by the couture industry, including those who did not seek couture because they favoured the street credibility of wearing younger styles. It was impoosible for Chanel and its competitors to try to compete in the arena of sportswear and dance styles, which were becoming popular in the 70s. The leotard and layered ballet skirt outfit from the 1978 collection looks very attractive and is undoubtedly well-made, but the fickle market of the time probably wanted "the real thing" from dance shops.



Sources from Book - 《Chanel : key collections》by Melissa Richards

Info about Chanel

Chanel is one of today’s best known and most highly sought-after fashion brands, and has been one practically since it was founded by Coco (Gabrielle) Chanel in 1909. Her big break hit when she opened a small shop in Paris in 1910 where she sold her hats. And by 1913, after asserting disdain for resort wear, she launched sportswear: Her take was simpler—flannel blazers, jersey sweaters, and women in trousers, all of which were decidedly against twentieth-century culture memes.

Chanel was trendsetting before there were trends. Her post–World War I look gained attention, as she brought on modernism in fashion through beaded dresses in the twenties, the infamous little black dress, as well as a two- or thee-piece suit, which is still a signature Chanel look. By 1921 she introduced Chanel No. 5, and was once quoted as saying "A woman who doesn't wear perfume has no future." No. 5 went on to become one of the best-selling fragrances of all time. After a period away from Paris, Chanel returned after the Second World War in the fifties, a time when Christian Dior was touted as Paris's premiere couturier. However, Chanel rose again with the launch of her chain-link belt and quilted leather bags—today with the interlocking C's—reestablishing Chanel as the definition of classy glamour with an edge.

Coco passed in 1971, but the brand continued, even launching their first ready-to-wear collection in 1978. Yet without a lead designer to be the face of the brand, the house struggled to maintain its enchanting reputation for luxury. That is, until Karl Lagerfeld joined in 1983 to revive it to its elite status, which he did with added glamour and sexiness.

Today, Chanel stands out in just about every category—couture, ready-to-wear, accessories, jewelry, shoes, and fragrances. What began as a no-nonsense approach to fashion, designed to let women be comfortable while looking dignified, has been translated into classic, tailored style, especially in ready-to-wear, where the traditional tweed Chanel suit with a nipped-at-the-waist cardigan jacket remains one of the most popular—and most copied—fashion staples. Evening gowns tend to have an understated sex appeal and a bit of whimsy, and appear in luxurious fabrics with lots of embellishments.

Yet, there is always an undeniable element of the house's founder. "A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous," Coco Chanel once said. Fitting, since that's the absolute embodiment of the label even a century after it was founded.

Chanel Designed By Karl Lagerfeld, 1983 - Present
Yvonne Dudel, 1978 - 1983
Jean Cazaubon, 1978 - 1983
Philippe Guibourge, 1978 - 1983
Coco Chanel, 1909-1978

Daisy X Jacobs

Daisy Flower paraphrases the simple, beautiful, pure and innocent. Marc Jacobs used different textures and lines with the unique style of Daisy to give the elements of lively and youthful into the Daisy watch.

The inspiration of famous fashion designer can be a simple daily object. And the object can be very common and simple in structure. Just like Apple, the international computer coporation. Having the simple design and appearance, many people love it.
　　　

Sometimes, maybe we don't need a very complicated design, plain and simple can be also created infinite imagination.

2009 S/S Ready-To-Wear -Rock

Rock in Chanel

Karl Lagerfeld tried to use the element of rock music to make the collection more different and unique.

Karl Lagerfeld explains with a laugh: " Coco Chanel had an affair with stravinsky, mine was with a guitar."

copied from www.chanel.com

2009 S/S Ready-To-Wear Comparison

The Comparison of
S/S RTW and F/W RTW in 2009

1. In 2009 S/S and F/W collection, It seems that Karl Lagerfeld like to use Tones, that means the color adding grey to a pure hue. He tried not to use high value and tints color in the collection, and keep to use lots of achromatic color scheme to diversify his range of design.

2. As you can see the below 2 boxes, in S/S collection, Karl Lagerfeld used analogic color scheme.
But in F/W collection, Lagerfeld used complementary color scheme.
The color experiment - from http://colorschemedesigner.com/
In the boxes, the color with yellow circle mean the hue which is used in the design.


S/S Ready-To-Wear



F/W Ready-To-Wear

3. In 2009 S/S collection, Karl Lagerfeld used more WHITE in the design when compare with F/W collection. White color appears 19 times in the S/S collection however in F/W collection only appears 3 times. It is believe that using more light color can make the collection become more refreshing and energetic. Black color appears most of the times in both collection, it appears 29 times in S/S and 54 times in F/W.

Pie chart of S/S collection

Pie chart of F/W collection

4. In two collection, Karl Lagerfeld produced similar number of design.
In S/S collection, it have totally 71 designs -
66 Women + 5 Men
In F/W collection, it have totally 73 designs -
65 Women + 8 Men

2009 S/S Ready-To-Wear Close Up

Chanel
2009 Spring/Summer
Ready-To-Wear


Here's some close up snapshot of the collection and the press published by VOGUE.


KARL LAGERFELD
won't let the fashion spirit be dampened by anything as unchic as a credit crunch.



He recreated a Chanel shop front in the Grand Palais this morning, complete with double-C logo-ed awnings and damp-inflicted window frames on the fourth floor. A uniformed male doorman opened the door and a legion of sassy Chanel shoppers sashayed down the catwalk.



"Our house, in the middle our street," sang Madness as look after look of classic Chanel appeared - no major new trends born or big statements made, just proof of how wearable and varied the Chanel woman can be. It was happy sophistication, as if a dip into Chanel will clear any grey mood, whether you come out carrying a tiny pink shop bag, as some girls did, a CC-logo-ed guitar and matching case, or wearing the signature tweed in black, peach, pink or cream - perhaps sparkling with multi-strand glittering beads and chains at the neck, or maybe your cropped jacket will show off a slim ribbed top beneath for a younger, fresher version of the suit we all love to love.





Cashmere twin sets, gorgeous pleated white blouses with black ribbons at the empire line and delicious chiffon tops that were finely embroidered to look like tweed all expunged any dwelling on miserable money markets.

The monochrome trend was done here better than anywhere on LBDs with white bows across the bra line, strapless jumpsuits over frilled cream chiffon blouses and cropped tuxedos over chiffon pleats.

sources from www.vogue.co.uk and www.chanel.com

2009 S/S Ready-To-Wear Analysis

2009
Spring and Summer
Ready-To-Wear

66 Ladies outfits

The Color Family of Chanel 2009 S/S Ready-To-Wear

Apart from achromatic color scheme, Chanel in spring and summer ready-to-wear collection tried to add different chroma and values of pink and purple and grey.

The principle of Repetition of color is used - "Using more than one helps unify patterned and plain areas and requires care as colors accent direction of repeats."

Moreover, The principle of Alternation of color is also used - "Two colors changing back and forth in the same order lead the eye in the direction of the regular exchange."

As Lagerfeld used the variety of hues, but similar value in the design, it presented the balance of color and the color harmony in the whole collection.

Grey color is no chroma, but in various levels of fullness and values.

I've made a classification of different Grey.

Relatively high value and high level of fullness

Medium value and medium level of fullness
and this grey color presents more warm feeling

Relatively low value and low level of fullness