After Chanel's dead in 1971, the House of Chanel faced decline. There was a frustrating double-edged sword to wield if Chanel's legacy was to continue, due to the necessity of blending tradition with innovation. The genius of Chanel was no longer there to bend the rules and thus caution reigned in the House of Chanel.
By 1978, Ready to Wear had been deemed to be the sensible avenue to take, and the company started to rethink matters. In 1977 Philippe Guibourge was appointed to produce Chanel's first Resdy to Wear collection.
Jersey was reintroduced as the desireable fabric - fitting was not deemed necessary, since its shape would adapt, and it had the right combination of informal easy shape and "dressed up" elements to suit the times. (During this time scent and perfume were hugely successful and led the way in the commercial market.)
The 1978 collection's navy suit was the perfect uniform for women who wished to appear smart and unfussy. It was ideal for both married women of a certain age and for working women who wished to appear fashionable but serious. The suits were quite successful at adapting the image of the Chanel suit to complement the mood of the times and were accessible to more people.
There was a whole new generation of women who were not being catered for by the couture industry, including those who did not seek couture because they favoured the street credibility of wearing younger styles. It was impoosible for Chanel and its competitors to try to compete in the arena of sportswear and dance styles, which were becoming popular in the 70s. The leotard and layered ballet skirt outfit from the 1978 collection looks very attractive and is undoubtedly well-made, but the fickle market of the time probably wanted "the real thing" from dance shops.
Sources from Book - 《Chanel : key collections》by Melissa Richards
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